Mowing is the mechanical cutting of growth from turf to maintain a nice even appearance. Most people use 21 inch rotary cut mowers.
All Natural Landscape recommends mowing be done weekly during the months of March - November. As needed during the months of December - February.
Mowing can be done at a height of 1 1/2 - 3 inches. All Natural cuts at 2”.
Mower blades should be sharpened yearly. We sharpen our blades weekly!
Grass should be cut in a pattern that will highlight the turf to drive by traffic. Patterns shall be rotated as to prevent rutting of the turf. Set sprinklers to NOT water for the two days prior to mowing as to minimize the chance of causing “ruts”.
Try and avoid pausing in one area with the blade engaged, as this leaves an unsightly "toilet bowl".
Grass clippings can be left on the turf if the grass is dry and does not “clump” or the turf is not long. Many of the new “mulching” mowers work well as long as the turf is not long or to wet.
Always stop your mower when a pedestrian or child approaches your area.
Always walk the area to be mowed, picking up any rocks, debris or hazards to the mower. Pay attention to protruding curbs, sprinkler heads, concrete, nightlights, trees or shrubs.
Don’t mow your lawn when the ground is to wet as this may cause soil compaction and ruts to develop that can become permanent.
Go TopWhat about edging?
Edging is the mechanical cutting and removal of new growth from the edges of turf or groundcovers. It is accomplished using power edgers with blade guards and hand held power string trimmers.
All Natural Landscape recommends edging of turf be done bi-weekly during the months of March-November and as needed during the months of December-February.
All turf should be edged, alternate the soft edges one week and the hard edges the next. Tree wells should be edged with a string trimmer every other week. Ground cover is edges as needed, but never less often than once per month.
Always wear ear, eye and hand protection.
String trimmers can occasionally be used on "soft edges", those edges of turf that abuts a bark bed. A power edger should be used on all "hard edges", those turf edges that abut concrete, sidewalks or curbs.
Mower blades should be sharpened yearly. We sharpen our blades weekly!
How do I get rid of thatch buildup?
Thatch is a dense mat, an accumulation of roots, stems and grass clippings between the soil and the visible green vegetation. Often several inches thick, thatch prevents the penetration of oxygen, fertilizers and water down into the soil where they are needed. Thatch also creates a breeding ground for fungus and insects that destroy lawns. Every time you mow the lawn, more thatch builds up, creating a denser barrier to the nutrients your lawn needs.
A power rake called a Thatcher with its rotating combs quickly removes the thatch buildup allowing oxygen, water and nutrients to get to the root system and allowing sunlight to penetrate to the soil. It is a violent mechanical hard raking that remove thatch, debris and turf and the lawn will look unsightly for a few weeks. Late spring, once it is dry is a good time to power rake a lawn. Power raking combined with fertilizer, additional seed will produce a healthier, more beautiful lawn!
Another possible solution is regular aeration of the turf. This works to prevent thatch buildup, but does little to remove a thick layer of thatch.
How and when should I aerate my lawn?
Aerification is the process of mechanically removing plugs of soil (5/8" by 2") every 6-8 inches. This allows a number of beneficial things to happen with the turf. These advantages include:
- The release of gases from the soil and exchange of oxygen.
- Increases the amount of water to the soil and plant.
- Stimulates new root growth.
- Helps control harmful thatch buildup.
- Allow fertilizers and nutrient to move faster to the root.
- Relives soil compaction caused by traffic and equipment
- Reduces water runoff on slopes and hills.
How often should I fertilize my lawn?
There are 16 nutrients that are essential for grass growth. Any one of these nutrients can cause plant death if not present. All of these 16 are available in the environment. The five that we as turf grass managers supplement with fertilizers are: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sulfur and Iron. The numbers on the side of a bag of fertilizer illustrate the pounds of that nutrient present per 100 pounds.
- Nitrogen - the first number in our 16-16-16-6 is mainly responsible for enhanced shoot growth and density, plus a darker green color.
- Phosphorus - the second number in our 16-16-16-6 is mainly responsible for enhanced root growth.
- Potassium - our third number 16-16-16-6 helps with disease resistance, heat, cold and drought tolerance.
- Sulfur - our fourth number 16-16-16-6 improves shoot color and carbohydrate reserves.
At six weeks, fertilize your new lawn with a quality, slow release fertilizer, something similar to 21-7-15, 50 % slow release. ALWAYS WATER FERTILIZERS INTO TURF IMMEDIATELY AFTER APPLICATION. Broadleaf weeds can be a problem in a new seed lawn. Broadleaf weeds should not be a problem in a new sod lawn. If broadleaf weeds are a problem treat the lawn with a “weed & feed” the first couple applications of fertilizer.
After that we recommend fertilization 5-6 times per year adding weed control with two applications. You may notice weed grasses in your new lawn. These are grasses native to Oregon and cannot be removed with “weed & feed”. If weed grasses bother you, you must hand pull them on a regular basis.
We recommend Professional Turf Center for all your lawn care fertilizer, seed, pest and weed control needs.
What should I do about Pests?
Integrate Pest Management (IPM)
Integrated Pest Management, or IPM, includes not only pesticides, but all cultural operations for sustaining a healthy landscape.
All Natural Landscape recommends, when faced with pest problems, focus on minimizing pest populations rather than annihilating them. This approach is called Integrated Pest Management.
Observation is at the heart of IPM. Knowing to prevent possible problems such as over watering, improper fertilization, drainage and applying pesticides as a last resort.
As an example, Red Thread, (a common lawn fungi), is easily controlled by applying fertilizer. The fungi attack nitrogen starved lawns.
Moss (yes Moss is a pest, as a pest is any plant, insect or rodent that is unwanted), is often controlled by applying chemicals, but the real solution is often, better exposure to sun (thinning the canopy of nearby trees), better drainage, proper watering and proper removal of debris off lawn.
There is no such thing as a pest free landscape, most insects are beneficial and perform valuable services in our landscapes. It is only when pests populations increase and become a nuisance that we intervene. But using the principles of IPM we can control pests, protect our environment and save money.